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2016 Teryx4: Primary Spring Removal Mod

Discussion in 'Teryx Nation' started by WagZ, Jun 19, 2016.

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  1. WagZ

    WagZ WagZ SXS Nation Team Leader

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    Hey Folks,

    Got some info i wanna share. EVERYTHING YOUR ABOUT TO READ HERE IS BASED SOLELY ON MY OPINION...... This pertains to my 2016, Teryx4 LE that is ALL STOCK except some lighting mods. Recently i discovered a gentleman who peeked my interest with a FB post about removing the Primary Spring on an identical machine as mine. He Claimed that removing the Primary spring Actually lessened the load on the engine, allowing it to not only need less throttle, but also still retain engine braking capabilities.. The Man was right.. I contacted very reputable sources about this information (VFJ did get back to me Today, Monday, june 20th) Bot JBS and VFJ had me call them and explained why this was a very good idea for my type of riding i wanted to achieve. There was obviously more than 1 way to do it, but this was the cheapest.

    Who May Like this setup? Personally, id say this is for those who like to trail ride, and ride roads, those who dont do alot of major deep mud or run large tires and lifts. Also, This setup will cause slower acceleration, but it isnt horrible. It IS alot smoother engagement as there isnt a high stall speed for the primary to engage.

    Who WONT like this? From what i understand, This mod will NOT keep your top end speed on long runs uphill if you've got over sized tires and lift. Also, this isnt really for those who mainly mud bog with large tires. Bascially, if you've got big bad tires (30" or bigger) this really isnt your key setup.

    Pros: Lower Engine RPMS to achieve top speed, Less Stress on the Engine AND the belt, Lower cab Temps, Less Engine Noise, Low Range is a good deal faster now when needed, and ya dont gotta really hone on it to wind it out now..And it still retains the engine braking ability in high and low range

    Cons: I really didnt find any yet to be honest so im gonna leave this area to be determined and then fill it in if needed?

    Ok, So lets get some pictures up here and explain a little..

    First Step, your gonna need to gut the passenger side front seat area, Personally i suggest taking the tank out and the bar behind tank to make life easier, as well as the plastic surrounding the area.. Thats just my opinion, so yinz can do what ya feel is easier.. Once you've got good easy access to your clutch cover, Remove the (I think it was 9 bolts?) that hold the cove on. This will require an 8mm socket. Pull the cover off using a wiggle motion because it has 2 dowel pins, and the snout of the crank shaft actually rides in the cover.. we'll talk about that later.. But after your cover is off...this is bascially what you'll have looking at you..
    [​IMG]


    Alright, Next step..lets discuss the bolts needed to be removed and all that good jazz... Notice the first picture below shows ya what all bolts need to be removed...also what size they are.. SO grab those sockets and get ready to remove them.. (im pretty sure the center nut can possibly stay on...but i removed it anyhow) , so go ahead, grab your 22mm socket and remove it just to be safe.. but pay attention to the 2nd picture below, it shows ya that the thread is actually left hand thread which would mean "Right Loosy, Lefty Tighty" so make sure ya dont screw that up. lol Then remove the the 10mm head bolts, leave 2 of them snug (180 degree's apart, or 1 on the left, 1 on the right) and after all others have been removed, remove the 2 last bolts just to prevent face plate from flying off and wacking ya in the chops.. After you've done that, scroll down to next picture and text..

    clutch fastener removal.jpg
    clutch nut direction.jpg

    Alrighty, all your bolts, and the nut is loose..or off/out. Alright, Get a paint marker...and mark your faceplate and clutch parts. The faceplate ALSO has 2 dowel pins, so mark it and then your ready to pop it off and remove the spring...
    clutch faceplate tip.jpg

    alright, pop of face off, grab the spring, toss it at your kid to play with and then slap the faceplate back on,

    clutch spring.jpg


    Tigthen up your 10mm bolts, (111 in-lbs) and your 22mm nut (69 ft-lbs, dont forget the 2 washers) and then blow that baby out REALLY REALLY good...spend a little time here with a fan blowing in your favor to get rid of dust, dirt, belt dust, etc etc.
    clutch re-assembly.jpg


    ALso, grab your cover and blow off, wipe off the cover bushing. Slap a bit of grease on the end of the crank shaft tip, and maybe a little dab in the bushing

    [​IMG]

    Ok, so bascially thats a rough go at how ya do it.. lol One other tip i wanna suggest for yinz folks is this, The following picture is something that prolly none of yinz have, which is heat resistant silicone/asbestos lined guarding.. i put a small piece over the top of belt housing where wires run... Last week i helped neighbor re-wire his t4 which had a bad melting issue because the wires layed on the housing and basically turned into a huge ball of yucky crap! So...maybe yinz oughta think about covering your conduit with a heater hose or silicone heater hose if yinz can find any, but protect those wires, it gets freaking hot in there!!
    clutch cover wiring.jpg



    If ya got questions, etc etc, please feel free to ask. If your viewing this thread as a guest, PLEASE join us here and maybe post a picture of your ride, and get in on our community and free give-a-ways! Thats all i got for today folks! Enjoy!!
     
    Last edited: Jun 20, 2016
    PhilW, DieselFume, wixthedog and 2 others like this.
  2. Seastacker

    Seastacker Carl Moderator

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    Really!? That seems weird! What back shifts the primary clutch..just the way it rides on the taper of the belt? Also, I hope that a trail side belt change is not that involved! Seems like you had to pull quite a bit apart to access the clutch.
     
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  3. mtimesplitter167

    mtimesplitter167 Mike SXS Nation Expert

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  4. mtimesplitter167

    mtimesplitter167 Mike SXS Nation Expert

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    From what i have seen on one on the trail with a broke belt,Yes it is.The RZR 800 is just as bad.
     
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  5. WagZ

    WagZ WagZ SXS Nation Team Leader

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    Yup, trailside replacement is basically the same.. just a few other steps involved.. lol atleast now i know what all ill need tho!
     
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  6. mtimesplitter167

    mtimesplitter167 Mike SXS Nation Expert

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    You will need a 12 pac,dinner and maybe breakfast.[​IMG]
     
  7. WagZ

    WagZ WagZ SXS Nation Team Leader

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    Nah, just an array of tools and about an hours worth of time. Its really not that hard to do, just hot!! lol
     
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  8. Curt

    Curt Administrator

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    Great post WagZ!!!!!
     
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  9. mtimesplitter167

    mtimesplitter167 Mike SXS Nation Expert

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    Yes that is the worst part about doing a belt on the trail,every thing you touch is HOT HOT.
     
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  10. Richard Davidson

    Richard Davidson RD SXS Nation Insanity

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    Great write up! Thanks WagZ. Good point about the wiring. I use header wrap, and HVAC tape. That stuff is sticky!
     
  11. Jaybey

    Jaybey Joe SXS Nation Expert

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    WagZ you're the man. Good write up and pictures.
    I have change about 5 belts on Polaris Rangers, all on the trail, they never break in the yard. I keep a magnetic parts tray and a tool box and lots of magnetic lights on hand for that eventuality. I think the hardest part about the whole process is getting the new belt to slip on the primary, I can never find my belt tool.
     
  12. mtimesplitter167

    mtimesplitter167 Mike SXS Nation Expert

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    Joe @Jaybey If you have a roller secondary you can also use the square end of a 1/2 drive extension,works great.
     
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  13. WagZ

    WagZ WagZ SXS Nation Team Leader

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    Edited with a little tidbit of info, VFJ got a hold of me today.
     
  14. DieselFume

    DieselFume Adam Moderator

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    2013 XP 800 Ranger, Three 2017 Polaris 570 Full Sizes. All subjected to hard ranch work, long hours and rough conditions. 5 years or bust!

    Interesting Wagz!

    Not sure if I completely understand the concept though? So basically you're taking out the only spring that counteracts the flyweights? engagement would be lower in rpms, and top speed would be alot lower I think? isn't that taking the engine out of it's powerband?

    I know on the polaris machines the first sign to me that the clutch is having problems is when the WOT rpms are down around 5200-5400 and acceleration is worse.

    Maybe the kawasaki's are a different beast?

    Was a good read, thanks Wagz!
     
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  15. Dseldoc

    Dseldoc Tom Team SXS Nation

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    Very informative with some great pics. I don't suppose you would be willing to pull the cover plate back off and post a picture of the spring seat...? OK, just kidding anyway.
    It will be interesting to hear about the long term effects on clutch and belt life. I know you'll keep us posted.
    Thanks.
     
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  16. WagZ

    WagZ WagZ SXS Nation Team Leader

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    According to what ive been told by VFJ AND JBS, basically the end product is a longer lasting belt, (but by how much?..) Lower cruising RPMS, (it didnt effect overall speed, just overall engine RPMS at cruising speeds, now it isnt WOUND TIGHT) Also, the only thing that really controls back shifts is the secondary from what i can tell.. (its also got a wet clutch design..but i know NOTHING about that) VFJ does offer a kit that will allow me to do the same, but also have butt whooping kick-down snap like it should. Eventually ,ill get that kit he offers im sure. but this is the "Cheap mans" way of doing it

    @DieselFume You are correct about the powerband of the engine, rather than a SNAP, Zing Pow, its more like a slow acceleration..

    Ive actually caused a TON of waves, as well as another individual.. Alot of folks busting our balls, but hey...they can keep hating.. lol I dont plan on installing HUGE tires and then ripping through knee deep mud, so it wont hurt my riding style much. Im not concerned but just mainly wanted to let folks know that they CAN do this if they're check book doesnt allow for a 250 dollar clutch setup...it'll get ya by without going broke if you wanna get crafty. I do plan on installing a primary spring though in the near future. It'll help with the back shifting that they both talked about.
     
  17. Dseldoc

    Dseldoc Tom Team SXS Nation

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    Seems like a "softer" spring would be a good compromise to accommodate back shifting and allow for a variety of acceleration needs. Knowing the spring free length and other dimensions and the factory spring's tension when compressed you could search for a spring with less compressed-length tension to give you the desired throttle needs without compromising (too much) the other clutch operating characteristics. Might make for an interesting research project for some enterprising soul...
     
  18. WagZ

    WagZ WagZ SXS Nation Team Leader

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    Correct, if memory serves me properly, i believe VFJ said the primary spring is 175lbs from the factory. (dont recall if thats compressed or not..assuming so..) and the secondary was 400. (typically i guess the secondary should be exactly double what the primary is..if i recall exactly what he said) I got no way to search or test all this info...thats why the folks at VFJ and JBS do what they do..

    @Curt we need a clutch supporting vendor here to talk with us.. lol
     
  19. Curt

    Curt Administrator

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    I agree. We have DDP for the Polaris clutches but we need someone that handles the Kaws and other brands....
     
  20. MillarLightBars-FXwhips

    MillarLightBars-FXwhips Keele SXS Nation Rookie

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