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- Bailey's Journal - ( My 2018 RZR XPT4 )

Discussion in 'Member Builds' started by RWB713, Mar 12, 2019.

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  1. RWB713

    RWB713 Richard SXS Nation Regular

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    2018 Polaris RZR XPT4

    I've had quite a few things that have caught my attention for maintenance over the last couple months, so it was definitely a much needed time for this. Spent a good day tearing apart and going over the whole machine on Saturday. Got the front end torn apart completely, found a lower control arm bolt to be loose and starting to wallow out the hole in the frame mount, Ball joints are in less than optimal shape, steering rack starting to get sloppy, brakes starting to have an intermittent soft pedal, sway bar bushings are shot, all those issues will be addressed during this teardown and then some.


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    I had been starting to develop a popping upon spinning under high load in the front diff, which I suspected to be the armature plate and sprauge telling me it was about that time...that did turn out to be the case, armature plate fingers starting to bend, sprauge has skip marks from spinning inside the ring gear (that's the popping sounds), and wear marks at the armature plate contact points. Also discovered the pinion bearing was on it's very last leg, plastic cage was dislodged and the balls were just loose, great timing for a rebuild.

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    Outside of the lower control arm bolt, i didn't find many unexpected issues, so that's nice. I figured my walker link bushings would be ready from some attention, as i had heard others having issues with them after a year or so, but mine seem to be in very good shape still. The tie rods I had recently installed from Super ATV are in great shape, I had heard people saying they had issues with the rod ends and bearing, but mine are in good shape after about 500 miles of use.

    Here's the Too-Doo list as it sits now:

    Routine Fluid / Filter maintenance

    Replace master cylinder w/ OEM unit and replace brake pads (OEM)

    Replace steering rack with OEM unit
    The shock therapy rack is really the only upgrade option for the rack at this point, and I've read about it needing frequently rebuilt (like every 500 miles ish), so I threw that option out and decided 2700 miles was a good run, so I'd go back with the OEM rack. The sandcraft stabilizer was a possibility, but I decided the hassle of mounting it with my winch being above the diff wasn't worth the effort to me.

    Replace sway bar bushings
    Flexrock has a sweet setup for the rear that I'll be using, but they unfortunately don't have anything for the front yet, so I'll be going back with OEM on the front for now.

    Super ATV Chromoly +1.5" forward H/C A arms w/ threaded ball joins
    Yup, SuperATV got the nod for my control arms. I know there are many people who will say there's better options out there, but I haven't had a single problem with any super ATV part I've used on this RZR. I think SATV has stepped up there game a substantial amount in the last few years, so I decided I'd give them a shot for a pretty major part here. Their threaded ball joints and new UMHW bushings come installed on the arms, and they're a screaming deal for everything you get all rolled up into 1.

    Super ATV front frame brace
    This will remedy the slightly wallowed bolt hole I found, and hopefully prevent any further issues as well

    HD Extreme Stage 3 Differential upgrade
    - They've been teasing a stage 3-S since July, but i can't get them to give me a solid time frame or much info on it, so I think they stage 3 will have to do since I need it pretty quick. I opted to go for the normal Stage 3 and not the rock edition (oddly enough), to maintain the capability of wheel speed differentiation for steering purposes, driving a solid locked front end 100% of the time would only benefit me on the rocks, which would be nice, but I do enough other types of riding that I justified not going with the rock edition. Stage 4 was out of the question since I do drive on asphalt a decent amount (another reason the rock edition got veto'd as well). If i've managed to keep the stock setup together for 2700 miles, I think the regular stage 3 will hold up just fine for me.

    HCT Split coolant tanks
    Get that engine coolant completely separated from the intercooler system to aid in keeping the charge temps down

    AA Oil Catch Can
    Been needing to do this one for a while. I opted for the version 3 with the second port to vent from the valve cover as well as the crank case, but I'll be using the Alba oil fill adapter rather than welding on a new port. I won't be doing a drain back provision at this time.

    DIY oil Cooler Setup
    It's probably not needed much anymore on the 2017+ Turbos, but I want to do it for a little added reassurance, and to get a little more heat out of the engine / turbo as well. I'll give more details on this after I decided if actually like what I have planned or not, But I'll be using a derale stacked plate cooler and the Weller sandwich adapter.

    A couple other things to briefly touch on since I never got around to posting in this thread about them:

    I had a misfire / detonation / running like crap problem develop a while back after riding for a while. The final diagnosis was the fuel pump. I replaced with the AEM replacement pump, and all has been well. During that time, I also replaced a TMAP sensor, and upgraded to silicone intake / charge tubes, as well as the RKX BOV. All has been good with those as well. I'll put a note here too that I had fully planned on going with the EVO tubes since they are 4 ply compared to the 3 ply agencies.... but after an e-mail exchange with a sales rep at EVO in which he mislead me with information he was unsure of, and then proceeded to be condescending toward me about his experience level (This was not about the charge tubes, but a different product) , the empty cart button got a quick press, and Agency got the call.

    I've got a lot of other things going on this month, so I'll have to pick at all this here and there when i have time, but I'll update as I get things done!
     
  2. Rockin Ronnie

    Rockin Ronnie Ron Moderator

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    That really looks like fun! but when your done will be better then new!
     
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  3. RWB713

    RWB713 Richard SXS Nation Regular

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    Got a bit done last weekend and picked away at through the week, FedEx decided to put a major hold on the project last weekend by not delivering my steering rack until Tuesday, and I wasn't going to start putting the front back together before I got that rack in, it's tight enough with everything stripped, but that gave me some time to knock out some smaller stuff and do some other odds N ends as well.

    The front diff rebuild went great, should be fairly bullet proof now, Stage 3 HD setup seems well made and extra tough, big rollers, billet cage, 12 tooth HD armature plate, Extreme duty pinion bearing ( it's an FAG 3306-BD-2HRS-TVH-C3 for anyone that is curious, sealed bearing ), new HD seals, HD roll pin, and a billet spring retainer (I forgot to order that initially, so the OEM plastic one is in the pics below). Hopefully the output hub plugs don't start to leak over time like the OEM unit, other than that, I'm pretty confident in this setup. I'd recommend HD extreme to anyone looking to build up the front diff. The machining is done by DC Motorsports, products are sold through HD Extreme. USA made, veteran owned companies, and great guys to deal with.

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    I moved on to my DIY oil cooler setup next, I came up with the crazy idea to mount the cooler up in the air intake duct for the clutching, since i already had a fan pulling air through there anyway, and it was protected and a clean looking install, that was still really out in open space. I know what you guys are going to say about this....I have belt temp issues...why on earth would I want to suck air over a hot cooler and then blow it at the clutches.....and you would have some justification in saying that, I wouldn't disagree much, it's a logical thought. My overall thought tho is that my belt runs cool and excellent up until WOT, and I don't think the airflow over it is the problem at that point, so a couple degrees hotter air overall isn't going to make or break the issue there, plus, there's still a good amount of open space around the cooler, and there's already a fan inline (blowhole) pulling air at low speed... so this was a clean, concealed, and efficient way to add the cooler. Obviously time will tell if I'm hurting anything, and I will monitor and give any updates as i discover them, but I'm confident I'll get a nice drop in oil temp, and not have any ill effects as far as clutch heat. I'm happy with how the install turned out too. I think it's a pretty clean looking setup. (That very few will ever notice is there even lol).

    Parts for this are:
    Derale 51008 10 row, 8AN, Stacked plate cooler
    Weller Oil Sandwich Plate
    Fragola 8AN Push-Lok line & fitting
    K&N 204-1 oil filter

    Total cost would be about $350, but I had the line and fittings sitting on the shelf from a proposed oil filter relocation on my XP900 that I never got around to doing, so I finally got to put those to good use. The cooler and lines, and sandwich plate add 10oz of oil capacity by my math, and the filter actually takes a little less, so my overall oil capacity should be just over 3qts now, up from the factory 2.75qt.

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    Installed the HCT Split Tank Cooler System as well, I opted to leave the thermostat inline for now because I don't feel removal to absolutely necessary, and I'd like my engine to get up temp at the normal pace still. I wasn't having overheating issues anyway, I just wanted the coolant systems split apart to aid in keeping the intake air temp down. I chose the HCT over the Dynojet Ice-T because I like that it keeps both tanks in the same relative location still, whereas the DJ installs on the other side of the machine under the hood and retains the OEM coolant tank as well, so the underhood area becomes more cluttered I think.

    The install is pretty straightforward... drain the coolant, remove old & mount new tanks, reconnect, fill & bleed. ( a little more involved if you pull the thermostat ).

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    This was also the first time I've serviced the desertcraft filter since install, it seems to filter very effectively, I had installed the new silicone charge tube the same time as the filter, so i put a small film of dielectric grease direct past the filter to monitor if any fine dust got past the filter, and the entire tube was still as shiny and clean as when I installed it, so I think the DC filter does it's job well, and I just had to blow it out, wash it, and let it dry. The filter itself was completely saturated with dirt and dust, as expected considering the environments i ride in.

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    I also did the wastegate adjustment so I would be able to run the stage 3 AA tune if I wanted too, but I really wonder if my altitude (5800') was making the turbo work to hard to being with and the wastegate had been blowing off a little more pressure than needed. I've always thought my turbo had a bit more heat than some since it will pretty much always glow, no matter how hard or easy i run it, and even after putting the cat-less exhaust on. I'm going to stay at stage 2 for a bit and see if i notice any difference there first, really, all the cooling upgrades I'm doing should help with overall efficiency too.

    Got the new master cylinder installed as well, still need to change brake pads & bleed this weekend. Got the new steering rack bolted in last night, so I'm set to put the front end back together tonight or tomorrow hopefully. Still have the catch can to put on, and the sway bar bushings too. Flexrock parts came in this week and seem very well made and should hold up well. Fluid Maintenance is all done, changed the spark plugs for the hell of it too.

    I think that brings everything up to date, hopefully I will get it all together and get to take it out for a test ride this weekend!
     
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  4. Rockin Ronnie

    Rockin Ronnie Ron Moderator

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    A lot of work going on with a lot of improvement's will be interested in what worked and what didn't . I wonder about the cooler inline with belt intake as well will be interesting to see that outcome for sure. Very nice write up THANKS! for taking the time and sharing .
     
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  5. RWB713

    RWB713 Richard SXS Nation Regular

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    I didn't get it completely finished over the weekend, but i did get it fired up, the cooling system bled, and let it idle up to temp and run for a while, I checked the air temp flowing through the clutch inlet after it warmed up... my garage was about 80 degrees, and with the oil cooler temp at 180-190, the air being pulled through was about 100-110 on the clutch side, so still plenty cool enough to cool the clutches at 180-200, maybe not quite as efficiently, as 80-90 degree air, but I think it should still work pretty good. I did see about a 20-30 degree drop in oil temp across the cooler too, so that will really help take some stress off the cooling system.
     
  6. Rockin Ronnie

    Rockin Ronnie Ron Moderator

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    Sounds like it should work. Time and a couple good rides should tell the story! Fingers crossed and hope for the best.
    When you want to go threw my front diff LOL?
     
  7. RWB713

    RWB713 Richard SXS Nation Regular

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    Whenever you're ready! I actually picked up a used one that I'm rebuilding as well, so I'll have an 18 XPT diff for sale soon if you know anyone in the market!
     
  8. RWB713

    RWB713 Richard SXS Nation Regular

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    I got everything finished for the most part last weekend, time hasn't been on my side much. I just have to put the skid plates back on and put the rear seats back in and it'll be ready to ride, hopefully this weekend a bit.

    New steering rack install went ok, expect for a little oversight on my part. I had marked my steering shaft when I removed it, and both the new and old steering rack had a yellow mark on them....I assumed this to be in the same position on both racks...I was incorrect in that assumption, so I had to take the rack in and out a couple time to get it centered in the steering movement, but I eventually got it where it needs to be. The shaft isn't very forgiving onto the splines... it comes off easy, and makes you feel like it should go back on just as easy... it does not, It was a bit of a chore to get it on the splines at the power steering unit, but I managed to get it on there (three times even! Took a whole beer each time too).

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    Front diff and driveshaft all went back in next with no issues. New roll pin at the front diff, greased the carrier bearing and splines at the yoke when it was going back in. All good.

    Onto the control arms and frame brace...The frame brace takes a little finesse to get on and lined up, i found it easiest to use a jack under each control arm point one by one, and that seemed to work pretty well. It's not terrible to install at all, just needs a little assistance. The Super ATV control arms went on good, Built pretty solid, I installed at the preset adjustment on the pivot blocks and it turned out pretty well at -.8° camber. I could go a little farther negative, since spec is -1 to -2°, but I'll probably wait until I put new tires on to make that adjustment so I only have to do it once. I didn't like their grease fitting selection that came included, so I picked up a couple different ones from Autozone and I felt that made it more convenient, not that they need much grease, or greased very often. One of the grease zerks on the ball joint had been broken off during shipping as well, SuperATV was more than willing to send me some new ones, but I didn't feel it was necessary.

    New say bar bushings on the front were installed and greased, new brake pads in, Master cylinder installed, and old brake fluid flushed from system and bled with new fluid. Front end done!

    Here was the slight deformation on the control arm tab that I needed to remedy, it wasn't very bad, but needed addressing regardless
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    The rear sway bar bushings I got from Flexrock came in and are a nice piece, but I feel they could use a little refinement, or have instructions or new hardware included. The stock bolts on mine were too short, and also too small for the hole in the new bushing bracket, The brackets have 3/8" mounting holes, the stock bolts are 8mm (5/16")... I was left with the choice of drilling the stock square out of the frame mount, running a smaller bolt that the bracket was drilled for, or modifying a 3/8" carriage bolt to fit the hole in the frame... I chose the latter of the 3 options and ground down the square on new 3/8" x 2" carriage bolts, there's still enough of the square to bite in the frame, and i didn't have to permanently modify the chassis mount, or run too small of a bolt. So all in all, I made it work, and the bushings are nice, like I say, just needs a little refinement I feel.

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    I was going to run the AA oil catch can with the additional valve cover port added via an Alba racing oil fill adapter, but I discovered that the adapter doesn't fit under the engine cover, so I chose to go a different route. I found a place called UTV Catch Cans, that only has one product, a catch can for a Turbo RZR lol. It's a pretty nice little setup that features a filter in the cap, and a port to still use the engine vacuum to vent the case. The bottom also unscrews to so you can dump the sump, rather than having a petcock or drain valve. I couldn't mount mine where they designed it to be mounted because of clearance issues with my agency intake tube, so I moved it to the back corner of the bed and cut some new hoses, it's secured solid with a hose clamp for now, but I intend to build a nice bracket for it when time permits.

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    After I got the front end all back together I noticed that I still screwed up & managed to have the steering rack off center about 90°... so the steering wheel wasn't straight.... I definitely wasn't going to be pulling the shaft or rack back out at this point.... so i figured i'd just pop the steering wheel off and recenter it... I don't have a steering wheel puller, but the manual says to remove the entire column and tap it off with a punch and hammer (remove so you don't damage the PS unit beating on it)...well not I could just turn the splines on the PS unit to center the wheel....but I'm me... and I already had the column out.... so i decided a new steering wheel was in order! (Opportunity upgrades! lol)... Well I can now tell you that the steering wheel does NOT come off as easy as the service manual makes it seems, and you should absolutely make, or buy, a steering wheel puller to make the task 100x easier... Two 10-32 screws about 3" long, a piece of steel strap, a 3/8" bolt and tap is all you really need. 1-1/8" is the hole spacing for the 10-32 screws... you'll understand all that if you ever go to make one... but set that tool up and it pops right off (Like every other steering wheel I've pulled with an actual tool does... no idea why Polaris leads you to believe you should do it the other way, you do not have to remove the column if you have the tool either). Anyway.. I picked an NRG Innovations quick release, which is a really nice piece I must say, and I took a gamble on a $30 off brand steering wheel on ebay... ebay score for sure. The dish and size of the wheel (12.5") are much better than the factory wheel in my opinion, and the quality actually seems really good surprisingly. It's a very solid aluminum wheel, obviously not wrapped in real leather, but still a nicer fake vinyl wrap, it feels pretty good in my hands really, I'm pretty happy with it, the wife even liked it too!

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    I also took a little time to clean up some wiring on my switch panel, and install some new switch faces since I was tired of the old ones, I also got some new replacements for the OEM switches to match as well.

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    (It's the winch switch...I know somebody is curious lol)
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    Also decided to go ahead and build a copycat T**-L** harness for the front diff. I don't buy in to some of the claims the makers of the originals seems to push for these things, (I've talked about that in several other threads, so I'll omit that here), but I do like the ECU bypass aspect of the harness and not letting the ECU have any control over the magnet in the diff, so I decided to go ahead and make one for myself. I also feel I improved upon their design, because, as I discovered, their's takes away the functionality of the 4wd indicator on the dash (because you're bypassing the ECU), not that it really matters, but I have a thing with stuff like that not working, so I rigged mine up with an added relay to keep the indicator working as well. Direct power & ground is provided to magnet anytime the switch is on now, without passing through the ECU. (PM me if you want one... that's all I can say :grin)

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    I did take it for a quick test ride after I got everything finished up, No noticeable increase in belt temp that I could see just cruising around, seemed about the same as before. The new front end parts have definitely made a huge difference, steering feels solid as new again, no squeaks, jerks, or bangs like i was having before (from worn sway bar bushings). The HCT system & oil cooler does seem to help it cool down faster and heat up slower, but I'll need more time in the machine to make a full assessment there. Brakes are back to new feeling, that's awesome. I did take the time to seat in the pads per the manual as well. I only engaged 4wd on a small hill to make sure everything was working there, and it was, but I won't have much to report on the new diff until I get it back into some rocks.

    One thing I did notice that I want to mention... I made that wastegate adjustment like I mentioned because I felt something wasn't just quite right with my turbo, no real issues or anything, but I felt it was running hotter than it should, possibly being overworked at my elevation, and I wanted to be ready to switch to my stage 3 tune if I wanted to. I had also noticed (as I has seen mentioned before) that once I set my BOV to vent to atmosphere, I had the same feeble like "woo"... like a dying owl or "feeble Ric Flair" as he called it ( Hilarious description ) when the BOV vented.... didn't seem right, and I only had it setup like that for one ride prior to this teardown, so I hadn't looked into it. But after i got everything together and made that wastegate adjustment... I was met with a nice loud "pssshhh" the first time it vented. It pleasantly caught me off guard as I hadn't thought about it much. The wastegate adjustment was the only thing I messed with that could have effected that, so I think my suspicions were right that my wastegate was venting a bit much, and making the turbo work too hard, and not keeping boost pressure in the charge tube efficiently. I didn't go full throttle at all during my little run as I was paying attention to how everything else was doing that I just added, but I expect I might notice a bit of a difference now when I do.

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    Onward to the weekend!

    Project Beer Count: .... probably about 24.... it was spread out over a couple weeks lol
     
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  9. RWB713

    RWB713 Richard SXS Nation Regular

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    Got a short ride in on Saturday, went out to a little honey hole that is somewhat forgotten about around here called the Rock Garden, but it was a fun time. Outside temp was cooler, maybe 65 ish, and it was almost entirely super slow speed crawling save for the mile drive back to the truck. Highest belt temp I saw as 180 and that was on the fast run back to the truck, it stayed around 140-160 in the rocks the whole time. Engine temp stayed very cool as well, Highest I saw was 190 when I stopped to walk a climb real quick, other than that it stayed in the high 170's and low 180's for the whole ride. I didn't put a coolant temp gauge on for the intercooler, and I wasn't building boost very often at all, but the intercooler and exchanger were pretty much cool to the touch anytime i checked by hand.. so far it's looking like the setup is working as it should, won't have a "hot day" test until next summer probably, but next time out I'm going to run it hard and take some data logs to check it out in that scenario, I'm optimistic that it will do nothing but good for me!

    Front diff is smooth as butter, these rocks have insane grip since they aren't trafficked very often, even more so than Moab or the Canyon I normally ride in, I don't think I even even slipped a front wheel all day.

    Overall a great shakedown on the rocks for everything with no issues, I'll beat on it a bit in the coming weeks for a full test.

    A few pics and a video from the day:

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  10. Rockin Ronnie

    Rockin Ronnie Ron Moderator

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    looks like a great day glad everything is working as you planned. keep us posted
     
  11. RWB713

    RWB713 Richard SXS Nation Regular

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    Couple Updates from the weekend:

    First, if you don't run a catch can(on a turbo machine)...I highly suggest it. In the stock form, all the gunk in the pic below will run through your turbine, charge tube, all across your sensors, through your intercooler, across the throttle body, and burn through the cylinder, definitely not optimal, this collection is from about 60 miles of varied throttle and riding....

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    Second... I upgraded from my harbor freight ratchet strap cooler mount to these slick steel brackets from Big Hammer Fab. I will caution you that these take about 3 weeks to ship if you order them, and I ordered mine raw without powdercoat even. He has them for several different cooler options, and they're solid and pretty sweet looking. I would recommend his hardware as well, and just using a normal lock and ride mount allows for some movement, his hardware keeps it rock solid.

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    Discovered after Saturday my left front shock is developing the somewhat common leak at the reservoir....Shock rebuild & valving was planned for this winter, so it looks like it will be perfect timing.

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    These guys showed up over the last couple weeks as well :D 34-10-14 Super ATV XT Warrior Stickies

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    Haven't gotten the new shoes mounted up yet, but I took her out Saturday to burn a little more of the Crawlers (which measure an astonishing 29.75" now if anyone is keeping track lol). I might get a day to get everything mounted and aligned this weekend, but not sure yet....as with everything I do...pieces keep getting added to the project lol.

    Here's a little clip of a climb everyone told me couldn't be done in a RZR, it's not the best video since the guy was standing so close, and you don't get to see the whole obstacle....but you can see the sketchy exit at least lol


    Better go make some RZR funding, have a good week everyone!
     
  12. Rockin Ronnie

    Rockin Ronnie Ron Moderator

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    will be looking forward to you report on the new tires! Also shock therapy rebuilds the shocks really reasonable may be worth a check.
     
  13. RWB713

    RWB713 Richard SXS Nation Regular

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    I have an e-mail into ST and Ed the Suspension Guy, I'll most likely go with ST and do the RIS valving since I already have the spring kit from them, hopefully they haven't outgrown themselves yet and still care about the day to day customer. I've heard mixed feelings lately. I'll be in their neck of the woods for Thanksgiving, so I'm going to try and drop my shocks or rzr off with them if they have any availability.

    I'm excited to get the tires on for sure, they are ridiculously soft, should stick like glue!
     
  14. RWB713

    RWB713 Richard SXS Nation Regular

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    2018 Polaris RZR XPT4

    I got a day in the garage Saturday and managed to get the tires mounted and a full alignment done too.

    Mounting tires is never a real fun time, but this tool right here makes a word of difference if you don't have a full on tire machine in your garage, I picked one up for about $65 on eBay I think, definitely a great tool to have around for UTV & ATV tires, I'm sure I'll find a few other uses for it too.

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    Mounted up with no load and at 10 psi side by side.... the 34" XT Warriors measured about 33.75", the 32" Pro Armor Crawler XG with the most remaining tread (about 50%) measured right at 30".

    32x10r14 Pro Armor on 14x7 5+2 STI HD5 Beadlock - 54.2 lbs (new)

    34x10r14 Super ATV XT Warrior (Sticky) on the same wheel - 67.6 lbs (new)

    Wheel Alone weights 15.6 lbs, Warriors are 52.0 lbs tire only

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    For the alignment, I built a set of setup rods to put in place of the shocks for the alignment to make it easier for everything. Removing lower control arms, measuring camber, setting toe, everything is easier where you don't have to deal with the inconsistencies of the suspension settling, and the resistance of the tires. Set ( or measure if not adjusting ) your ride heights first with the suspension settled, measure eye to eye on the shocks at that ride height, set the rods to that length, then swap the shocks out for the rods, now you can set it on stands with the tires off and make all adjustments and measure everything, takes a minute to build the rods, but once you have them, any future alignments are quick and easy.

    I used two pieces of 3/4" hardwood for toe plates, I had a friend run them over a plane to make them smooth and perfectly flat, and they worked out great.

    I also had added 1" of preload from the recommended shock therapy settings that came with my springs, just to give myself a touch more clearance for the rocks. Now, going from essentially 30's to 33's... I took that 1" of preload out to keep the center of gravity a bit lower, and still gained the extra 1/2" of clearance from the tires, I'm happy with that compromise, I've always wanted it to sit lower, but knew I needed to clearance for the riding I do, should be a pretty sweet spot now.

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    I ended up with -1.8° camber, +2.5° caster, & 1/8" toe in in the front, 0° camber in the rear, and about 1/8" toe out, which is what they come setup with from the factory.

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    I'm also going to give a set of 1" wheel spacers a run on the rear wheels to even the width front to rear and see how I like it, running 5+2 wheels all the way around makes the rear 2" narrower than the front compared to stock with a 10" tire. So now it's all even back up, actual width measured at the outside edge of the tires in 69" front and rear as it sits now.

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    Also picked up this front tie down loop and tow hook from ZRP, I've wanted something there to tie to for a while, I thought this piece looked pretty good with the factor 55 prolink on my winch.

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    I didn't get a chance to take it out for a spin since I had some other duties to attend to, but I'll try and sneak out one afternoon/evening this week to get an initial impression!

    Without riding them, my impressions so far on the XT Warriors is that the sticky compound is one of the softest tires I've every felt in my life, you can twist the tread blocks a good 30° with just your hand, probably even a bit more on the outer lugs, they won't last long compared to a normal or hard compound tire, but I was well aware of that going in, and I can say my asphalt time will be limited more so than in the past, but they should stick to the rocks like glue, I'm excited to get them on some climbs. They measure damn close to a true 34" with no load on them, Thank you Super ATV for that! The load of the machine does compress them a bit more that the harder pro armors with less sidewall, but that is expected, the measure right at 33" with the machine weight on them. The beads on them are extra thick, around 1/2" compared to maybe 5/16" on the pro armors, they seem like a well formed tire, and they look pretty good too. I wasn't the biggest fan of the look in pictures, but they look better to me in person. A true flat top tire always looks better aesthetically to me, but these aren't too bad. Tons of tread depth, gobs of sidewall to flex, and a tread pattern that should clean out well and grip excellent. So far, so good with them!

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    Project Beer Count: 6
     
  15. RWB713

    RWB713 Richard SXS Nation Regular

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    2018 Polaris RZR XPT4

    Just got back from a great day of riding, because any day on the rocks should be a great day!

    I started a review thread for the new tires Here so to keep from repeating myself & double posting, I'm going to put all the tire talk there for now ( Haven't updated for this ride just yet, might be a couple days).

    So in the never ending quest to find this mystical voodoo demon that's causing my rapid high belt temps at WOT (yup, back on that crap again), I picked up a known good, but used primary clutch from another forum member in an attempt to rule out pretty much all that was left in the clutch assembly, (the sheaves are all that i hadn't previously replaced) I disassembled and cleaned this clutch up over the week, put a new set of SLP power pucks in, moved my springs and weights over, verified the balance of the weights with a jewelers scale, scuffed up the sheaves (secondary too), and put my SLP clutch cover on. I also replaced the belt at this time since I was putting a new clutch in and I had about 1000 miles on the belt that was in it.... I used a Gboost World's Best Belt this time (1202 PN)..not because I think it's better, but just because it's new, and of course I'm an idiot and had to try it just to have an opinion I guess, I'd still tell anyone that asked to stick with OEM, but I'm my own guinea pig sometimes.

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    On Wednesday night I was getting ready to put the clutch on and was looking over things and discovered I had a broken rear transmission mount:

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    I honestly have no idea how long this mount has been broken, and I'm almost embarrassed that I hadn't noticed it up until now...but it had been broken long enough that after further inspection I noticed it has taken it's toll on the motor mounts as well as they were bent, twisted, and misaligned:

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    My first thought was that that was a good possibility it was causing a shift and twist in the engine/trans mount during acceleration and it was going to be the belt temp demon I had been looking for all along....unfortunately that didn't turn out to be the case....but it was Wednesday, and I was riding this weekend....so I needed trans & motor mounts in a hurry....I did some quick research and picked up these gems from Hess Motorsports, and had to painfully pay for overnight shipping on them:

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    Billet & Urethane trans mounts & side brackets, engine mounts, and billet crossbar, and they are works of art too, very fine pieces with precise machining. They also use 10mm bolts in place of the stock 8mm, so the holes in the chassis must be drilled out to accommodate the larger bolts. I'm normally not a big fan of permanent modification to the chassis that wouldn't allow for the stock parts to be used in a pinch....but in this case, it seemed logical and worth it. I also had to notch the heat shield behind the exhaust to clear the new bolts, it's not absolutely necessary, but it prevents you form having to pull the exhaust and heat shield in the future to get the mount out.

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    A Saturday evening & Sunday morning thrash got these installed in time, and in the process I pulled the inner clutch cover so I had a chance to verify it wasn't warped,,bent or cracked..all checked out visually and with a straight edge and flat surface (thankfully!). these are much stronger & more rigid than the factory rubber isolaters, so that has it's trade offs...it's more efficient power transfer due to less flex, but it also makes the engine vibration transmit though the chassis more and you can feel it... I'll tell you next week if the wife notices the difference.. I can feel it, but I don't think it's excessive..we'll see tho....it did transfer enough vibration that my roof developed a rattle, which I intend to fix with a little sound deadener because that's all I'll have time for this week since I'm headed out of town for the week after work on Monday (the RZR is coming....for a ride, and other soon to be revealed reasons...hint...I'm going to Phoenix....)

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    Used the alignment tool for setup and verification as always....still slides on and off as smooth as can be...

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    So anyway, after all that, I made no progress in the belt temp debacle, still behaves exactly the same as before, did a 25 mile low gear break in on the belt with 3 stops for cooling, then took it easy for the first few miles of the actual ride, belt seems to work good, but still gets hot quickly at WOT.

    One interesting thing to note...I went from a 38 lb 32" tire to a 52 lb 34" tire, in the process of making sure my weights were balanced I actually ended up adding .4g of weight via SLP's "projected tip" set screws...and my shift out RPM actually seems to have gone up from 8250-8300 to 8500-8550....belt has to be slipping right? That's my thought at this point.....I'm already over the heavy mark for the recommended weight will all my parameters considered, and now, I'm at the very top of the suggested RPM range....so....add weight? (which would require new base weights since I'm maxed out in the current ones) In theory, that would provide more belt grip and reduce the RPM....but who the hell knows with my cursed machine....I'm gonna think that one over for a while, probably contact Jerry at SLP again for some insight....

    It was a great day of riding none the less, and much to the misfourtune of my buddy...I actually had to use that winch I've been disguising as an ornament for about a year now....his rzr decided to take a little nap on a rock and needed some assistance waking back up...

    (The roof took all the damage, everything and everybody was ok otherwise)
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    The crew for the day: (we should be getting paid by Polaris by now lol.... over 9 years we've had 15 machines between the 4 of us)
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    Bailey....showing off some walker link with stock sway bar flex:
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    One more day at the works then a week off! Hope some of you guys get some time off this week too!
     
  16. RWB713

    RWB713 Richard SXS Nation Regular

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    2018 Polaris RZR XPT4

    [​IMG] Hmmmm....
     
  17. RWB713

    RWB713 Richard SXS Nation Regular

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    2018 Polaris RZR XPT4

    Picked up the finished product yesterday afternoon, It was cool to actually get to go by the shop and talk to the guys (and gals) at Shock Therapy, and for the first people I've ever let touch my rzr with a wrench, they did a great job. I am very happy with the experience @ Shock Therapy !

    Got the RIS revalving done & I also had them do a full rebuild on all 4 shocks and got front limit straps installed since I'm running such a heavy wheel/tire setup now. Also got a little bit of bling from their new billet preload collars on the rear. The front collars where out of stock, but I'll get them ordered when they're back in stock. Anxious to get it out and feel the new hotness!

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  18. RWB713

    RWB713 Richard SXS Nation Regular

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    2018 Polaris RZR XPT4

    Got a ride in while down here in Tucson, AZ while on the Holiday vacation. Some weather had moved in throughout the week and the locals advised me that our planned ride at Charouleau Gap was best left for another time, So we opted for a little more wife friendly area called Rail X Ranch just west of Catalina. It's an area of open desert with some small mountains as you get back further in. It was still a bit muddy, but the main road was the worst part, once you got into the rocky/sandy trails it wasn't bad at all, and a good time spent out in the cleared up weather.

    Nothing high speed today as I didn't want to cover the wife in water splash, but my first impression of the ST valving and rebuild is very good. The small bumps and rocks are not felt at all at any speed, and the washouts are as smooth as can be. I did bottom the front out one time, so i may add two clicks to the compression adjuster per ST recommendations, before the next ride, but so far I love the way the suspension feels.

    ST had cautioned me to take it easy one the first ride out as the suspension would feel a bit different and I would have a little more body roll since I was still using the stock sway bar in addition to walker links. It may be slightly more, but it's by no means sketchy or an excessive amount. I don't think I'll be changing out sway bars as I might even love the way the machine flexes even more now.

    The rattle that developed after I installed the billet motor/trans mounts is proving hard to find, It sounded like the roof, and being a big aluminum sheet, I expected it to be there, but it doesn't seem that is so. I put some sounded deadener on the roof before the ride, but that didn't seem to make any difference, and I tried to track it down a bit further but had no luck. I didn't want to spend much time looking for it instead of riding, so we just dealt with it today, I'll investigate more next week.

    Here's a couple quick pictures I got on the ride today, pretty cool area with some nice views and moderate terrain

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    Here's a pic from last weekend back home that a buddy sent me today too, figured it was worth adding to the thread too. This is a fun climb

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    I'm gonna head over and update the tire review thread now with the first 100 mile impression

    Hope everyone had a great Thanksgiving and safe travel home to everyone on the road or in the air!
     

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