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Clutch Info

Discussion in 'Wildcat Nation' started by Richard Davidson, Feb 27, 2016.

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  1. Richard Davidson

    Richard Davidson RD SXS Nation Insanity

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2016
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    Location:
    Reed City, Michigan
    Side X Side(s):

    2009 Arctic Cat Prowler 700 XTX

    This may help deciding on clutch issues!
    This only applies to machines with a wet clutch




    red rollers = 19 grams = 6000RPM AC # 0823-164
    blue rollers = 21 grams = 5500RPM AC # 0823-167
    green rollers = 23 grams = 5000RPM AC # 0823-170
    white rollers = 25 grams - 4500RPM AC # 3402-483

    grey rollers – 28 grams - AC # 0823-295

    black rollers – 33 grams AC # 0823-298

    17 gram roller - white - 02/375 - 03+400 - part number: 3402-366
    19 gram roller - red - prowler 09+700 - part number: 0823-164
    21 gram roller - blue - various H1 engines - part number: 0823-167
    23 gram roller - green - Tcat engines - part number: 0823-170
    25 gram roller - white - 06+ 500 - part number: 3402-482

    25 gram roller - white - 00- 09 500 - part number: 3402-483

    28 gram roller - gray - 10/650MP - 11+700mp - 12 WildCat - part number: 0823-295
    33 gram roller - black - 10+ Tcat mudpro - part number: 0823-298



    These RPM numbers associated with each set of weights is only a close guess. every machine will respond differently depending on altitude, tire size, and power adders. the more power you have, the heavier roller you can run for a faster upshift, and more RPMs. if i were you with that power you have, i would run the reds at the LEAST, and possibly even lighten up a set to get them even lighter. in the dunes[​IMG] to run ballz out, about 17-18 grams is where an H1 motor needs to be, and my stage 2 fixed plate work even helps the shiftout even more. it helps keep the rollers lower in the shiftout range, keeping you in a lower gear longer, but allowing you to build the RPMs you need for power, which allows the engine to rev into the power band, and not upshift too fast and bog the motor down.

    __________________
    ///AIRDAM clutch machining
    < http://airdamclutches.com/ >


    Info.. From Airdam post in one of my thread's

    C-1 is 34 degrees of preload on the spring so yeah its a little more than the others here is a graph to show it all to you


    with the helix facing upwards, you turn the top movable sheave clockwise, tightening the spring up giving the spring a pre-load to snap the clutch closed.

    the A,B,C settings are incremental in 1,2,3,4 hole positions on the helix itself. meaning if you leave the spring in the

    B position and put it in the

    #1 hole you twist the sheave 16 degrees to line the helix up with the shoe
    #2 hole you twist the sheave 38 degrees to line the helix up with the shoe
    #3 hole you twist the sheave 70 degrees to line the helix up with the shoe
    #4 hole you twist the sheave 92 degrees to line the helix up with the shoe


    A position and put it in the

    #1 hole you twist the sheave 25 degrees to line the helix up with the shoe
    #2 hole you twist the sheave 58 degrees to line the helix up with the shoe
    #3 hole you twist the sheave 88 degrees to line the helix up with the shoe
    #4 hole you twist the sheave 106 degrees to line the helix up with the shoe (almost impossible to get it around to line up spring is too stiff)


    C position and put it in the

    #1 hole you twist the sheave 34 degrees to line the helix up with the shoe
    #2 hole you twist the sheave 69 degrees to line the helix up with the shoe
    #3 hole you twist the sheave 93 degrees to line the helix up with the shoe
    #4 hole you twist the sheave 120+ degrees to line the helix up with the shoe (couldn't get it around there so i am only guessing)


    so every time you go up a hole, you are adding more twist to the spring, increasing the spring rate which gives you a faster[​IMG] and snappier backshift. i wish i had a spring load device that would allow me to clock the spring giving it more twist and compress it at the same time to see the increase in spring rate but i do not have that ability. for anyone who has dealt with their own clutch you will know that B-4 is SUPER hard to twist the sheave around and get lined up to, because it is super hard to reach. you can see by the degree of twist on the spring, you can calculate what rate would give you the correct spring tension you want. obviously B-1 is the softest setting you can have, and they go up from there. i'll try and make a list of the softest setting to the stiffest setting for you guys just curious.


    B-1 -- 16 degrees
    A-1 -- 25 degrees
    C-1 -- 34 degrees
    B-2 -- 38 degrees
    A-2 -- 58 degrees
    C-2 -- 69 degrees
    B-3 -- 70 degrees
    A-3 -- 88 degrees
    B-4 -- 92 degrees
    C-3 -- 93 degrees
    A-4 -- 106 degrees
    C-4 -- 120+ degrees
     

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