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DDP Clutch installation overview

Discussion in 'Midsize: 400, 500, 570, 800' started by Seastacker, May 4, 2016.

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  1. Seastacker

    Seastacker Carl Moderator

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    2019 Polaris General 4

    Well after installing heavier new tires a year or so ago, my little 500 was in dire need of some clutch work. The mid range to top end was just gone. I opted to do a DDP clutch set up that I ordered late this past Friday and it arrived today (shipped Monday). Thats what I call fast shipping! I spoke w/ @DirtyDawgDale and gave him all my info and set up information and off we went. First, take off the belt cover and belt.

    Here I used a breaker bar to hold the primary clutch from spinning while I used the clutch puller to pop it off. Just keep tightening the puller a bit and it will pop off. Every couple turns, give the head of the puller a solid whack with a hammer. No need to go crazy here, but the small impact seems to help them come off.

    IMG_1940.JPG

    Here is what came in the set up: New secondary clutch all set up and ready to go on. Billet adjustable weights, also already set up. A bunch of extra weights and hardware for tuning, and a new primary spring.


    IMG_1941.JPG



    IMG_1942.JPG

    Here is a view with both clutches off. You will wanna give this a good clean up w/ compressed air while it is apart. Mine was super dusty in there.

    IMG_1943.JPG

    Mind the shim washers on the secondary shaft. These are used to get proper belt alignment. I had 4 on mine and the belt was riding pretty hard against the outer primary sheave, so I ended up taking 2 off to get halfway decent belt alignment. It was like that with the stock clutch on there as well...makes me wonder if Polaris even checked it.

    IMG_1944.JPG

    Here is the old secondary (bottom) versus the new Team roller secondary (top). I think Dale said it best....the stock secondaries on these machines are not much more than golf cart clutches. The roller secondary will be a huge step up.

    IMG_1945.JPG

    Here I took the top cap off of the primary. Be sure to loosen the bolts in a criss cross pattern. Also be sure to mark the clutch and top cap so you can get them lined up the same way since they are balanced. I would say to use a sharpie, but I usually clean my clutches with a bunch of brake cleaner which will wash the sharpie marks off. I ended up just putting a light scratch mark in each part. I blew the primary out then soaked with brake cleaner to flush it out....it was freakin nasty!

    IMG_1946.JPG

    To get the weights out, you just unbolt the pins and slide them out...just that easy! I did have to use a punch on mine to give them a bit of a tap since they were in there pretty good.

    IMG_1947.JPG

    New weights verus old. The new ones have replaceable bushings in them. This should also help quiet things down a bit. The clutch on this machine has always rattled like crazy.

    IMG_1948.JPG


    Here we are with the new weights in, new spring installed and the top cap going back on.

    IMG_1949.JPG

    New clutches back on! A few notes: Be sure to scuff the clutch sheaves with a scotch bright pad to take the glaze off. Then take some alcohol and a clean rag to wipe the sheaves of both clutches clean (does not leave a film). I decided to install a new belt and use my old as a spare. I have always cleaned my CVT belts prior to installation to clean off any thing left over from the molding process. The belts can go either direction, but it is good policy to install them with the part number so it is readable. This way the belt will always go on the same way once installed.

    IMG_1950.JPG

    Here are the torque specs for my machine ('13 Midsize 500 Ranger). Im sure these are the same for pretty much any 400/500 Ranger.

    IMG_1939.JPG


    Probably the worst part of this whole job was the darn CVT cover. It was hard to get to a couple of the bolts (not sure how I would do it trail side) and wrestling the stupid thing back on! I did take it out for a real quick test run and it is pulling close to 6500 RPM pretty quick versus the barely 6k before. The ideal operating range is supposed to be 6300-6400-ish. We will see when I actually have some room to open it up and let the secondary shift out. The engagement seems slightly higher, but smoother and there is much better engine braking until almost idle speed when the primary disengages. I will report back in a few weeks post the St. Helen ride with a better review of the performance.
     
    alyaz, tuna, J P and 5 others like this.
  2. PlumberSteve76

    PlumberSteve76 Moderator

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    2015 Can am Maverick Max

    Great step by step information Carl!! I cant wait to hear how much better it performs. Thanks for sharing.
     
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  3. Stitch

    Stitch SXS Nation Regular

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    2013 ranger 900xp
    RVS tune
    DDP full clutch kit
    BA +2 Forward a arms

    Nice write up!
    Did my 900 last year and it helped a lot with engagement and the back shifting. Also noticeable performance gains.

    13 ranger 900xp
    Rvs tune
    DDP clutch
    Backwoods A arms
     
  4. Seastacker

    Seastacker Carl Moderator

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    Yeah, cant wait to try it out. I realize I have a lower power machine, but it sure would be nice to get a little juice back in her!
     
  5. PhilW

    PhilW Phil Team SXS Nation

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    Great write-up Carl!
     
  6. Curt

    Curt Administrator

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    Very good writeup Carl! That will help people a lot!
    You will like the kit a lot! I bet you may even be able to make test hill..........:D
     
  7. mtimesplitter167

    mtimesplitter167 Mike SXS Nation Expert

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    Nice writeup Carl!
     
  8. Dseldoc

    Dseldoc Tom Team SXS Nation

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    Very nice write up. Makes a guy want run out to the garage and tear something apart. Information sharing like this is one of the reasons people join this forum. Thank you.
     
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  9. Richard Davidson

    Richard Davidson RD Moderator

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    Great post! Very informative for all!
     
  10. Seastacker

    Seastacker Carl Moderator

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    I hope so. It was painful to have the front tires touch the top then have to back all the way down :confused:
     
  11. tuna

    tuna SXS Nation Regular

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    As everybody said, great write up. 1 question, the picture of you putting the top cap back on I notice something yellow on the red spring, what is that?
     
  12. Dseldoc

    Dseldoc Tom Team SXS Nation

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    The stripe on the spring is part of the way they are identified i.e. free length, wire diameter, spring diameter, compressed length, spring color and stripe color. They make rebuilding units like automatic transmission valve bodies much easier.
     
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  13. alyaz

    alyaz Al SXS Nation Rookie

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    Awesome write up. Thanks.

    Roughly what does a new clutch like that run?
     
  14. Seastacker

    Seastacker Carl Moderator

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    I want to say it was in the $600-700 range...its been a while. This kit was a bit more expensive since I opted for the adjustable weights to fine tune where needed. The new secondary added a bit of cost as well. The new secondary was a sweet upgrade for sure. Well worth the money. I can say being a snowmobile guy for many years, that the best money spent on performance will always be in the clutching! A set up like this is a must if you add tire size. In my case, I only added 1", but added like 10# a corner. This set up woke the machine back up. I already plan on a DDP set up for my new build for sure. I doubt it will even hit the trail until it has one of @DirtyDawgDale 's set ups in it!

    Here is a link to get you started:
    DDP Clutch Kit | Dirty Dawg Performance
     
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