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Front wheel bearing replacement...

Discussion in 'Ranger Nation' started by alyaz, Apr 17, 2019.

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  1. alyaz

    alyaz Al SXS Nation Regular

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    2011 Polaris Ranger 500EFI

    So was looking through my Polaris Ranger (500EFI) manual and it shows/ says to remove the front bearings and replace them with the struts on the vehicle. I was assuming the struts would be removed to do the bearing removal/replacement. The manual says to use a drift punch to remove and all they say is to ‘carefully replace with new bearings, using Locktite RC680.’

    So, would you remove the struts? Or would you do it with the struts on? If done on the vehicle I do have the required 'sized discs’ to press the new wheel bearings in, maybe using some redi-rod and nuts turned to compress them in.

    Thanks gang.
     
  2. DieselFume

    DieselFume Adam Moderator

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    2013 XP 800 Ranger, Three 2017 Polaris 570 Full Sizes. All subjected to hard ranch work, long hours and rough conditions. 5 years or bust!

    I haven't had to replace any wheel bearings on the front struts of our 570s yet, but on our old Polaris 700 I had done a few, and I never successfully removed a wheel bearing with the strut on the machine. Plus, they're not too difficult to remove just take the nut off the top of the rod and the whole strut assembly will fall out. You'll have to unhook the tie rod though. Would be the perfect time to add your lift kit:D
     
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  3. alyaz

    alyaz Al SXS Nation Regular

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    Ha. Copy, thanks, good to know. I will proceed with the removal plan. I have some new outer tie rod ends on the way too, so will wait till everything arrives.
     
  4. alyaz

    alyaz Al SXS Nation Regular

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    Well got around to putting in the new front bearings and tie rod ends today. I removed the struts and glad I didn’t try leaving them on. Pretty sure it would have taken a lot of hammering or the air hammer etc. With the struts off, having that press I built was awfully nice. Made things pretty easy. I did buy a cheap little set of bearing drivers...

    8milelake 10pc Automotive Bearing Race & Seal Driver Master Set 9 Size Puller Axel, Wheel Bearing Tools - Amazon Canada

    mostly because I don’t have any large sockets. The bearing drivers fit perfectly, allowing me to press the old bearings out and the new bearings in. I can’t imagine why the manual says to use RC680 Locktite retaining compound on the wheel bearings, where the heck are they going to go?

    The biggest frustration I had, well actually two... the first was not knowing how to get the A arms off the ball joint stud. I was naive to think that a little tapping would make them drop off. I ended up getting them free by giving the A arms a few good wraps, in the direction of where the A arms mount to the frame. That made them pop off really easy. The next frustration was my circlip pliers. I am giving them to someone I don’t like asap.

    I just ordered a new set of Knipex circlip pliers.

    Well, she’s back together and tomorrow I will check and adjust the alignment / tie rod ends.

    Again, thanks for all the help.
     
    Last edited: Apr 25, 2019
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  5. DieselFume

    DieselFume Adam Moderator

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    2013 XP 800 Ranger, Three 2017 Polaris 570 Full Sizes. All subjected to hard ranch work, long hours and rough conditions. 5 years or bust!

    Glad you got her done! Those bearing drivers will really come in handy for your press! I would never use any bearing mount on the new wheel bearings. I always use anti-seize, I have had enough trouble getting them out over the years!

    Getting the a arms off the stud can be a bit of a pain. I usually trap a larger pry bar between the a arm and the bottom of the strut and pry down with one arm while giving the A arm a wrap with a hammer from the other arm. Usually comes off first shot.

    When you need to replace the ball joint at the bottom of the strut you'll need to build a little tool. Basically just a sleeve of pipe larger than the outside diameter of the ball joint, with a large fender washer welded to the sleeve so the stud can go through it. Then put the nut on, and tighten. it will pull itself out of the housing. once you get the new one started back in, you usually can use a jack to help push it in so you can get the retainer back on.

    As for the tie rods, I'd just barely loosen the jam nut, thread the old one off, new one on and tighten it back up. alignment will be close. re-check alignment when you're done.
     
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  6. alyaz

    alyaz Al SXS Nation Regular

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    Another bearing question of sorts. The first 35 mm bearing greaser I had I am suspecting wasn’t machined properly. It was a real bugger to pull out of the bearing. I did apply a thin coat of grease on it but when pulling it out (on both sides of the front axle) I really had a tough time getting it out, without pulling the bearing apart.

    I did return it and bought another brand, which seems to have better tolerances and is made in the USA. I have tested the new greaser on one of the bearings I removed and it comes out of the bearing easier. However, just to be safe, is there a lubricant / oil / etc that is compatible with grease that will make sure the greaser slides in and out easier? I appreciate that the lubricant will be such a small amount that it shouldn’t contaminate the integrity of the grease but thought I would ask... thanks.

    Follow up: I called Valvoline. They said all greases have some resistance to oil intrusion and the small amount used for a film on a greaser would have no effect. Makes sense...
     
    Last edited: May 10, 2019

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