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Good option for you guys that want to run second battery?

Discussion in 'General Side X Side Discussions' started by DieselFume, Apr 12, 2017.

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  1. DieselFume

    DieselFume Adam Moderator

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    2013 XP 800 Ranger, Three 2017 Polaris 570 Full Sizes. All subjected to hard ranch work, long hours and rough conditions. 5 years or bust!

    I was just doing some work on some fire fighting equipment and bought a new solenoid that we use to transfer power from the truck's battery back to the fire fighting engine/pump. It's rated for 80 amps and continuous duty.

    It would be a good way to bridge two batteries so that any time the key is on, the solenoid would be energized and you'd have both batteries to crank with, and would charge both batteries as long as the key was on. Key off the solenoid would shut down and batteries would break contact.

    Ideas?

    @Fswan
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    Last edited: Apr 12, 2017
  2. Kudidl

    Kudidl Rick SXS Nation Team Leader

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    2017 XP1000

    Good info
    A lot of folks don't realize there is a difference in constant and intermitant duty solenoids.
    I wired a constant duty to my Ranger to power my winch and accessories.
     
  3. Fswan

    Fswan Forde Team SXS Nation

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    2013 RZR 900XP, 2011 Ranger 800XP

    Yep, Adam, that'll work! A couple of caveats for others that may want to do the same thing. The way you described it, you're essentially running two batteries in parallel. In order to do that efficiently, the batteries need to be as close to identical as possible. The reason for this is that when batteries are connected in parallel, they will equalize to each other. In that situation, the weaker or smaller battery will become the limiting factor. For instance, if you connect a 30aH battery and a 60aH battery together, what you will end up with is the equivalent of two 30aH batteries thus wasting half of the potential of the 60aH battery! When connecting the trigger wire, it should be connected to a 'keyed hot' source rather than a 24/7 hot source, otherwise any parasitic drain (and all Rangers have parasitic drains!!) will impact both batteries as the the solenoid will be active (the two poles will be connected) all the time defeating the purpose of having the solenoid. Quite frankly, for those that use their machines often (+ several times a week), I would just skip the solenoid and hook the batteries up straight parallel (pos to pos, neg to neg). You can cobble up something that gets past the two different size batteries limitation by installing a diode setup on the output side of the solenoid thus keeping the batteries from "seeing" each other and therefore allowing both of them too charge to their full potential.

    If having the second battery is for peace-of-mind as well as having the extra power, you might as well install a battery isolator rather than a constant duty solenoid. The installation effort is the same as is the final outcome of having the sum of the power of the two batteries available automatically. Plus, the isolator give a you a couple of features that the solenoid lacks. First, isolators have diodes built into their circuitry so you can run any combination of batteries you can fit into your buggy, even different chemistrys (a flooded plus an AGM, or or Lithium plus a deep cycle... any combination as long as they are both 12v! Another feature of all the popular UTV isolators is that they always give priority to charging the main battery first. When the main battery reaches full charge (usually around 13.2v) the isolator will close allowing the charge to flow through the primary battery to the secondary battery. The isolator will monitor the voltage of the primary battery and when it falls below ~12.7v, it will open directing all charge from the voltage regulator to go the primary battery until it reaches full capacity again and the cycle repeats... an example of a simple isolator that does all the above is: Amazon.com: True UTV-SBI-15 Smart Isolator for UTVs: Automotive

    You mentioned being able to bridge both batteries together for starting purposes. That is doable with isolator also (that has bridging capabilities)--just a little more wiring involved. That can be done with Sure Power 1314A which offers both automatic bridging (at engine start up) or manual bridging at any time. Sure Power 12V Uni-Directional Battery Separator (100 Amp) - Part#: 1314 The WirthCo 20090 (Battery Doctor) can bridge (bypass the isolator) but with that one, you have to have physical access to it because it has a button on it that has to be pressed in order to bridge. Unlike the 1314A , the 20090 does not require extra wiring. Amazon.com: WirthCo 20090 Battery Doctor 75 Amp/100 Amp Battery Isolator: Automotive
     
  4. Richard Davidson

    Richard Davidson RD SXS Nation Insanity

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    I opted for a dual battery setup using a continuous duty . Mine is controlled by a switch, and it allows me to keep a fully charged battery in my Prowler at all times. About the only time I have both on line is during snow plowing duty.
     
    Fswan likes this.
  5. trueam

    trueam Jobette SXS Nation Rookie

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    An automatic dual battery isolator is always the best option
     
  6. airshot

    airshot Ken SXS Nation Expert

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    Whew...getting a headache reading all this electrical stuff. Was a toolmaker for 50 yrs before retiring, wish I had learned much more about electricity in my learning years. I read and try to understand, but way to deep for my old brain, one day, I might need to ask for a layman's explanation of all this stuff, but for now...glad I don't have any electrical issues!!
     

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