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How to- Replace your inboard CV boot- Polaris Ranger 800XP

Discussion in 'Full Size: 700, 800, 2009-2014 Model Years' started by DieselFume, Apr 9, 2017.

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  1. DieselFume

    DieselFume Adam Moderator

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    2013 XP 800 Ranger, Three 2017 Polaris 570 Full Sizes. All subjected to hard ranch work, long hours and rough conditions. 5 years or bust!

    Hello Nation!

    I've had a ripped CV boot on my 2011 Ranger XP for a few days now, and since I had the boot sitting the the shelf, I decided to go ahead and fix it instead of buying a new axle. This boot actually wore out and wasn't damaged. It's something I've noticed as a trend on these 800 rangers that once they hit about the 20,000 mile mark, the boots begin to crack and break..

    This one is no exception- The polaris boot costs around the $40 area, which makes it a tough sell when you can buy replacement axles from someone like Part Discounter for only about $20 more and not have to do this messy job.

    But, there are times when you don't have the time to wait on new axles to come, or you are using a generic boot and just want the thing fixed.

    Here's the culprit below- greasy mess slung all over the place.
    20170401_2.JPG




    As with all projects, you need decent lifting equipment. I have young kids around generally trying to "help dad", so my last UTV lift jack I bought from harbor freight for less than $200. It has a nice pin that you can lock it into place when at full height so that it cannot fall on you, no matter who might tamper with the jack. 20170401_3.JPG


    Since I figured most of you didn't want to wait for 20 pictures to load, I'm going to briefly describe them in order-

    Remove wheel, followed by CV nut cover, cotter key, castle nut and brake caliper bolts (15mm)

    Once removed, slide off the brake caliper and pull the hub outward free of the wheel bearing assy. Sometimes the bearing half will come with the spindle, if the bearing doesn't fall apart you can get the old race half off, and put it back together with some fresh grease. If the wheel bearing is in bad shape, or is rough when turned, it's a good time for replacement.

    Remove the upper bolt on the wheel bearing assy (rear) and tip it out as you move the lower A arm down. This should bring things apart enough for you to sneak the CV out of the wheel bearing.

    Once free, you can give the CV assembly a couple good tugs and it should pop free of the transmission splines. Penetrating oil on that area before and while tearing down may be your friend. If things really get western, I've had good success using pry bars or adjustable crows feet, one on each side of the CV stub using equal force to pry/work it out of the trans. Careful, too much force can break the aluminum housing. Be patient.

    Once it pops free, clamp it up in the vice and use a flat screwdriver to pry apart the crimped portion of the boot clamps until they are loose enough to pop free.

    Remove clamps and slide ripped boot toward the center of the axle

    Wipe excess grease off so you can see what you're working with

    Using a brass punch (preferably but not necessary, block of hard wood works too) and hammer drive the inner portion of the CV off of the main shaft. Should only take a wack or two.

    -Cleanup- You need to clean the complete CV joint when doing this type of repair for two reasons. One- so that you can see what condition the joint is really in. and Two- to remove as much as the old grease as possible which by this point is embedded with dirt and will destroy the joint if not removed.

    You can use solvent, brake cleaner, paint thinner or whatever is available to you. I prefer a little bit of unleaded in an old coffee can and some time to soak. usually after a few minutes and some movement of the joint in and out it will pretty well flush itself out.. Once clean you can air dry or used compressed air.

    Inspect before re-installation- You're looking for pitting or galling of the balls or damage/deep scratches to the tracks they run in. Check for binding of the joint by putting your finger in the middle and rolling the joint round and round. Minor catches are ok since at this point the joint is not lubricated, but anything nasty or obviously damaged should be noted and up to you whether it's worth repairing from this point on.

    Your new boot should come with a pack of grease, but in case it doesn't you should only need around 4-6 TBSP of grease to do the job (think 1/2 to 3/4 stick of butter). Use something better than walmart quality grease. moly greases won't hurt but aren't necessary. I like to put about half the grease through the center splined hole of the joint, and about half into the new boot before it's slid on.

    Install new boot onto shaft first, followed by the old CV stub shaft/joint. You can drive it on with a hammer and a piece of 2x4 to protect the threads, or use a rubber mallet.

    The joint will lock into place. Put any leftover grease in the boot and slip onto stub shaft. Make sure inner/shaft portion of boot is slid onto its intended (recessed) place on the CV shaft.

    Install included boot clamps and use a CV band tool to crimp/tighten bands around the new boot. I have used a pair of nippers or needle nose vice grips before to tighten the band if you do not have the tool.. The bands can take quite a bit of abuse, so get them pretty tight!

    Put a good quality water resistant grease on the splines of the CV that are to be installed back into the axle, and re-install axle. Make sure it's locked into place fully before re-assembling.

    Re-install parts in reverse order of disassembly. When getting ready to install CV castle nut, be sure the two washers have the coned portion facing out towards the nut. It doesn't hurt to replace these if they appear completely flat or have been on and off quite a few times. The coned portion of those washers is what helps keep pre-load on your wheel bearings and keep the relationship between the CV, wheel bearing, and hub nice and tight.

    Tighten castlenut to 110 ft/lbs on rear, 80 ft/lbs on front before installing cotter key. Some who are good with an impact will have a good feel for this without the torque wrench, if you're not sure, use/borrow a torque wrench.

    Finish re-assembly and you're done!
     

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    Fswan, Jungleman, GaryL and 1 other person like this.
  2. GaryL

    GaryL Gary Moderator

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    Ranger 900 Crew

    Nice write up Adam!
     
    DieselFume likes this.
  3. Curt

    Curt Administrator

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    Great info Adam! That should help a lot of people!
     
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